Time to Return to Your Favorite Restaurant? Yes, Carefully, but Yes!

Luca Allieri, the longtime manager of Il Fornaio, the classic Italian restaurant in Coronado, is standing near the large kitchen of his award-winning eatery overlooking San Diego Bay. Reviewing the action at this once-again bustling restaurant, Allieri is all smiles. He’s been waiting not-so-patiently for his beloved restaurant's return.

“We’re open again,” he declares, “and we're proud to say that the entire team has come back, 100 percent of our crew has returned.”

While the restaurant is hopping, not everything is the same. Allieri is strictly and thankfully adhering to physical distancing and wearing masks at all times. He has an almost obsessive devotion to keeping the place safe and super-clean.

“We’re taking reservations, but we have somewhat modified the access,” he says. “The entire restaurant is sanitized repeatedly, from the top to the bottom, the chairs, the tables, the bottom of the tables, and people feel very good about it. We mark the lines, six feet apart. It’s working great.”

The best part is that Il Fornaio has outdoor dining on and near the patio (pictured above), which is just steps from the water. For safety reasons, I'm only dining al fresco for the time being. 

As I return to Il Fornaio, my smile, too, is hard to hide. After being stuck at home for months and rarely venturing out, it feels nothing less than life-affirming and joyous to be back at our favorite restaurant.

Il Fornaio boasts arguably the best location in San Diego County, the view across the bay to the popping San Diego skyline is striking. And in my opinion Il Fornaio simply has the finest food in San Diego. It is traditional and fresh Italian fare, not too pretentious but not too pedestrian.

Allieri has a keen sense of history. He and his Executive Chef Maurizio Mazzon have recipes and preparations that Italians have mastered over many centuries. They can prepare dishes from virtually every region of Italy.

And speaking of Italy, Allieri has gone through a frightening time, as so many of us have, keeping tabs on his family during the pandemic. Allieri hails from Bergamo, a city in the Lombardy region of northern Italy, approximately 25 miles northeast of Milan.

He was terribly worried about his mother, who still lives in Bergamo, which was the haunting epicenter for the virus after it surged in Italy.

“There was no communication from the town. No travel out or in,” Allieri says. “Bergamo was in the news every day. We were very concerned. But my mom, who is 77, is totally fine, and things there are getting better there. They're back almost to normality.”

The same can be said for Il Fornaio. But for me, it’s outdoors only, perhaps for quite a long time to come absent a vaccine. I feel safer that way. Life in this world is still very far from normal. Even the “New Normal” isn’t normal. Dining and living as we remember it may never fully return. 

Despite the fact that COVID-19 is stubbornly still out there, restaurants like Il Fornaio are reopening, and most of them are taking proper precautions.

Lest you think I’m one of those people who think the virus is a hoax, a sinister plot by the Deep State, think again. This pandemic is real, and it is still on a path of destruction.

But we all know now that that physical distancing and wearing masks really do work. So we’ve ventured out a few times in the last few weeks to revisit some of our favorite San Diego haunts that have outdoor options. 

It’s surprising how few restaurants have al fresco dining in San Diego, which is America’s Finest City with America’s Finest Weather.

Here are some other San Diego-area restaurants that take safety as seriously as they take their food and service. If you do venture out to one of these haunts, tell them Jamie sent you. And pass the pepper!

Il Fornaio

1333 1st Street

Coronado

Coasterra

Harbor Island

619-814-1300

The other restaurant with our favorite view. This stunning upscale Mexican eatery on the water at Harbor Island is as good as it gets. Chef Deborah Scott is a culinary genius. Coasterra has a large outdoor dining section and the physical distancing here is outstanding. Lots of room to breathe and relax. It feels very safe.

Alexander’s

North Park

619-281-2539  

A terrific romantic Italian eatery in the heart of the city that boasts a heartwarming San Diego restaurant legacy. 

Owner-manager Alex Walter is the son of the husband-and-wife owners of Old Venice, the legendary Italian restaurant that has been serving happy San Diegans for decades in Point Loma. 

Alex has brought this own brand of city cool to this restaurant, which is hugely popular and which has a really comfortable, if not huge patio for safe outdoor dining.

Calypso Café

Coronado Cays

619-423-5144

This Greek and Italian (all Mediterranean) restaurant on the Bay side of the Silver Strand in the Coronado Cays is a hidden gem about five miles south of the Hotel Del Coronado.

This was one of the first places we ventured out to try after being shut-ins for several months. Why? Because it’s on the Strand, which is a relatively mellow part of San Diego that a lot of folks just don’t know about. It’s never too crowded, it caters mostly to the Coronado locals, and of course the Navy Seals and others who train down there.

And you can eat outside on benches that are right on the neighborhood waterways, where folks live and get around on their boats. You can even take a gondola ride and feel like you are in Venice.  You will love this place. They serve everything from sandwiches to Greek salads to pasta. 

Warm and friendly owner Hanan Martha, who moved here from Jordan when she was a child, is very conscious of physical distancing and will do whatever she can to make you feel safe… and well fed.

On the Cusp of Greatness: Cusp Dining & Drinks is the Coolest and Hottest Restaurant/Bar in La Jolla

                                                                                                                                    

From the late 1970’s to the early 1990s, Elario’s was San Diego’s coolest, hippest music club. Perched majestically atop the sun-baked, 11-story Summerhouse Inn at La Jolla Shores, Elario’s capitalized on the hotel’s unrivaled ocean views and the beachy “smooth jazz” movement of that era.

But to their credit, club management didn’t just cater to the purveyors of “smooth jazz,” the yuppie jazz-lite that was identified locally by the famous whispers of KIFM 98.1 “Lights Out San Diego” jazz radio deejay Art Good.

While not all of that smooth jazz stuff was bad, Elario’s thankfully featured such legit jazz greats as Chick Corea, Charlie Haden, Freddie Hubbard, Henry Threadgill and many more. The venue also featured blues, soul and rock legends such as Papa John Creach, singer-songwriter extraordinaire Kenny Rankin, and many others.

Most of these shows at Elario's were produced by legendary San Diego music promoter Rob Hagey, who also created Street Scene and other seminal San Diego music events. But in the 1990’s, as jazz began to fall out of favor as dismal grunge and cheesy pop reached their zenith, Elario’s was relegated to featuring only local acts, and the club sadly shut down for good in 1993. 

Since then, that enviable space with its panoramic views has had many names and vibes. But I stayed away. I held a dumb grudge. I just didn’t want to give them my business after Elario’s was shuttered, which I admit is irrational since those owners have long since sold the hotel and moved on. 

It’s no longer the Summerhouse Inn. It’s now Hotel La Jolla, and I had heard that it had undergone a needed makeover. But I stubbornly continued to keep my distance. That is, until a few weeks ago, when I was driving by the hotel on a sunny afternoon and my curiosity got the best of me.

I just wanted to take in that unrivaled view on the 11^th floor again, and I wanted to see how the space was being used. When I stepped into the hotel lobby, I was immediately impressed and surprised. I barely recognized the place, which used to be, um, eccentric and old-school but not  in a good way. It’s much cleaner and more inviting than it ever was back in the day.

When I walked out of the elevator onto the 11^th floor, I was greeted by that amazing view, along with a smiling hostess and a lounge, which leads you into a restaurant called Cusp Dining and Drinks. 

The place is visually stunning, and not just because of the view. I was virtually breathless as I looked out at the Pacific Ocean and La Jolla Shores and the La Jolla village up the hill. The views are even more accessible now since the club has been re-designed so that every seat points toward the ceiling-to-floor windows.

Sunset Dining at Cusp

I was getting very comfortable very quickly at Cusp, but was determined to withhold any final judgment until I had a drink and a meal. 

Check. And Check. Wow. As I soon discovered, the food and the service at Cusp are entertainment in and of themselves. 

Impeccable, delicious food. Sold! Terrific service from people who quickly seem less like servers and more like old friends. Sold! Add to all that the inspiring views, and Cusp has quickly become my favorite place for lunch, dinner and drinks with friends. The live music is long gone, but it still has a cool, welcoming vibe. Cusp is friendly and casually classy, never stuffy, which is refreshing in La Jolla, where things can sometimes get unbearably pretentious.

The echoes of all those jazz and soul artists I saw years ago still echo in my head as I sneak several peeks at the ocean below. But for what it’s worth, the music they play in the background at Cusp is a terrific blend of pop, rock, jazz and soul. Oldies and newbies. 

Part of what was once Elario’s is now blocked off for use as a conference room, so it is a much smaller space now. But I have nothing but positive things to say about Cusp and its staff. I'm a new regular. It's a perfect place to grab a quick  but tasty lunch or impress friends who have come from out of town or just a few miles away.

It's kinda shocking how few of my friends know about this place. Even a few who live in La Jolla and drive by the hotel daily were not aware of it. They are now. When I tell them about Cusp, I mention the view, the friendly staff, the tremendous food and brilliant chef, the many specials they have almost every night, the history of the space, and of course the ghosts. Yes, there are apparently ghosts.

Multiple employees at the restaurant have seen them. The main ghost is a dapper older gentleman, they say, dressed in a long black tuxedo. It’s a little creepy, but he’s evidently harmless.

When I spoke with the staff of the restaurant, they didn’t talk about the restaurant ghosts with tongue in cheek.  They just very soberly told me what they had witnessed with their own eyes. They’ve almost all seen him. Hmm. I’d like to think that perhaps he’s an old patron of Elario’s who’s just waiting, and waiting, for the jazz to return.

I hesitate to even write this story, as I do not want it to become so crowded that we can no longer get a table. But I feel compelled to share my discovery of Cusp with my readers and friends in the San Diego area, and beyond.

The vibe and decor at Cusp can best be described as warm, designer beach cottage. It’s simply one of the coolest restaurant/bars in town. Ideal for a romantic date, or just to meet friends for lunch or after work. We even spent New Years Eve with friends at Cusp after dining just a short walk away at our favorite new Italian restaurant Osteria Romantico on Avenida de la Playa in La Jolla Shores.

Cusp's Executive Chef Ingrid Funes

Cusp works equally well as a restaurant or bar destination. Or both. It’s not too trendy, but not too funky. While the views are breathtaking, it’s the food and the feeling that will keep you coming back. It feels like a San Diego version of Cheers. Tell Norm, but don't tell Cliff. 

Ingrid Funes, the hotel’s Executive Chef Hotel/Food & Beverage Director, was born in El Salvador, which is where a lot of her inspiration comes from when it comes to cooking with bold color and flavors. 

“I come from a lineage of talented cooks, including my mother who ran a small restaurant and instilled in me a sense of pride and passion for the craft,” she explains.  

“Because of this, I learned early on that being a chef required hard work, and that it required a passion for food and those you prepare it for.  

Ingrid’s cooking style is deceptively simple: She creates menus that focus on bringing out the true flavors of each individual ingredient in the dish, and uses the best product possible."

Ingrid likes to like to play with bold and colorful ingredients, bursting with flavor. "I often use my family’s recipes as inspiration in my dishes, and enjoy making guests happy with unexpected flavors. It’s what keeps me going,” she says. 

Some of our favorites include the Kale Salad, San Sebastian Flatbread, Gnochi Bolognese, BBq Shrimp Taco, Housemade Granola, White Chicken Pizza, Pan Seared New York Steak, Florentine, Apricot Glazed Crispy Cauliflower, and my favorite the Salmon Beurre Blanc.

Cusp serves what they call "new American food," focusing on sharable plates. 

“We have something for everyone, from steaks and pasta to vegetables,” Ingrid says. “But I love creating dishes with fresh seafood as the main focus. I have an ever-changing Chef’s Fresh Catch of the Day that allows me to serve what’s freshest. I also have Crispy Octopus on the menu that I love.”

Ingrid says that when someone who has never visited Cusp asks her to describe the restaurant, she describes it as a “beautiful restaurant with exceptional views and food to match. We strive to make you feel welcome and comfortable, as well as provide you with an excellent meal and memorable experience.”

Cusp’s  ocean view makes you feel like you’re dining out for a special occasion. But the approachable and reasonably priced menu and welcoming service provide the feel of a neighborhood restaurant you can visit often.

One thing I noticed my very first night at Cusp is the diversity of the staff, America to Russia to Nebraska to Florida. This, Ingrid says, is by design. 

“We all have some things in common:  we are a laid back, yet focused group that prefers to work in a place with one of the best views around. It makes work better. Some of the staff have become like family. I spend so much time with them just like my own family.”

As for the ghosts at Cusp, Ingrid is adamant that they are real. 

“I can say from my personal experience that I have seen two gentleman. The young guy I have seen in the back kitchen by the dishwasher area walking towards the door to go to the restaurant, and the older man, I have seen him during service hours in the back of the restaurant looking at the view,” she says.

Ingrid says the guy in the back of the restaurant is the one in the tux. “I know the previous night cleaner said he also saw a little girl in the middle of the night seating in the bar area,” Ingrid says. 

 

How long have these ghost sightings been going on? “Since I have started working here five years ago, I can’t say how long exactly,” she says.

I asked Ingrid if the older ghost in the tux was perhaps a longtime patron of Elario’s like me who is still waiting for the jazz music to come back.

“Maybe so,” she says. “That would be fascinating.”

Ingrid says that many of the restaurant’s guests still reminisce about Elario's, that venerable music club that once inhabited this lofty space. I’m not the only one who remembers. 

“Many of our guests have been coming to this hotel for decades. I love hearing stories about what Cusp used to look like, and who used to dine here. It was a very happening jazz locale that many locals flocked to,” Ingrid says.

Cusp tried out some live acoustic music. But it didn't work out so well. “We used to have live music, but we haven’t in a little over a year,” says Ingrid, who just wants you to know that Cusp is a beautiful restaurant with flavorful food and the best view in town.

“The combination makes it so romantic and special. There’s no other restaurant in La Jolla like Cusp, we are unique,” she says. “Some customers like to call us a hiding gem."